Dining in Nepal

Dining in Nepal

The Nepali national meal is daal bhaat tarkaari (spiced lentils, boiled rice, vegetable curry). This is served in most Nepalese homes and teahouses, two meals a day at about 10 AM and 7 or 8 PM. If rice is scarce the grain part may be cornmeal mush called Ato, barley, or chapatis (whole wheat 'tortillas'). The meal may be accompanied by dahi (yogurt) and a small helping of ultra-spicy fresh chutney or achar (pickle). Traditionally this meal is eaten with the right hand. Curried meat -- goat or possibly chicken -- is an occasional luxury. Pork is eaten by some tribes but not by upper-caste Hindus. Since Hindus hold cattle sacred, beef is forbidden. Buffalo and yak are eaten by some but considered too cow-like by others.

A variety of snacks may be available at other times. Tea, made with milk and sugar is certainly a pick-me-up. Corn may be heated and partially popped, although it really isn't popcorn. This is called "ka-ja", meaning "eat and run!" Rice may be heated and crushed, called "chiura", usually translated as "beaten rice". It can be eaten with yogurt, hot milk and sugar, or other flavorings. Fritters called 'pakora' and turnovers called "samosa" can sometimes be found, as can sweets made from sugar, milk, fried batter, sugar cane juice, etc. Be sure such delicacies are either freshly cooked or have been protected from flies. Otherwise flies land in the human waste that is everywhere in the streets, then on your food, and so you become a walking medical textbook of gastrological conditions (ie. if you eat at cheap places)

Many dishes are Tibetan in origin and not very spicy. Some dishes to look for include momos, a meat or vegetable filled dumpling - similar to Chinese pot-stickers -often served with beer, and Tibetan Bread and Honey a puffy fried bread with heavy raw honey, great for breakfast. One delicacy that you do not want to miss while in Nepal is the dried meat (it especially complements with beer/alcoholic beverages).

Newars, an ethnic group, are connoisseur of great foods who lament that feasting is their downfall (whereas sexual indulgence is said to be the downfall of Paharis), so watch for Newari Restaurants. Some of them even come with cultural shows... a great way to enjoy good food while having a crash-course in Nepalese culture. In the Everest region try the local Sherpa dish of potato pancakes (rikikul). They are delicious eaten straight off the griddle and covered with dzo (female yak) butter or cheese.

Pizza, Mexican, Thai and Chinese food, and Middle-Eastern food can all be found in the tourist districts of Kathmandu and Pokhara. If you are on a budget, sticking with local dishes will save a lot of money.

Note that many small restaurants are not prepared to cook several different dishes; try to stick with one or two dishes or you will find yourself waiting as the cook tries to make one after another on a one-burner stove.